This section of pages will be about my 1968 GT350 Shelby Cobra .
Where did I find it? What I have done to it over the years? And more importantly, what did I end up with in 2019? I’ll add some pictures of the process. This gives me a place to document things about my car and share some pictures. I dedicate this page to my sister, Tena, Mustang fanatic that she is. Tena lives 1,000 miles from me so I can’t easily show her my car. So second best I am putting these pages together for her.
I found my car in 1982. Yes, I have owned my Shelby for that many years. When i got it, the car had definitely seen it’s better years. It had over 100,000 miles on it. Almost everything was worn out. Cars built in 1968 were not intended to last that many miles or that many years.
Step one was to make is safe to drive. Brakes, tires, clutch, cooling, etc. Step two was to fix the rust and cosmetic issues then get it repainted. I bought new fenders and quarter panels from Noah Yoder Ford. The Yoder Body shop had the car for almost a year doing the body work and paint. Since then I have been fixing more major items. I have replaced almost everything on this car. I have owned it long enough to have been able to do it gradually.
During the last 5+ years I have actively upgraded the braking, the suspension and now the engine. Always with an eye on keeping it close to stock. I wanted to make the car better than it was new. I wasn’t thinking of building a race car, although I can see how someone would end up doing that. I wanted a performance street car. Something fun and reliable to drive. Even though the ’68 Shelby was a pretty cool car in itself, if I had to fix or replace parts I might as well upgrade and make it a better Mustang. The labor was going to be the same regardless of the parts replaced. So that is what I did.
Tonight on the Barrett Jackson auction they called a ’66 GTO with a lot of added and upgraded things like disc brakes and A.C. as “enhanced.” Yes, I have enhanced my Shelby Mustang.
CLICK HERE for links to the pictures
My Shelby Cobra GT350 today
My Shelby Cobra is a restored 1968 Mustang that runs and handles better than it did when it was brand new. Here is a summary overview of my car:
- The body of the car was repaired with new Ford front fenders and quarter panels. Yes, in 1982 you could purchase fenders and quarters directly from Ford. It also got new floors to replace the rusted out ones. The car was repainted in 1983 the original Candy Apple Red color.
- The seats are recovered with NOS deluxe comfort weave interior. New headliner. New Chrome and screws all through it. New carpet.
- 1968 Ford 302/5.0L about 310 HP – Blue Printed and Balanced in 2019 – original block and crank
- Holley Brawler 4 bbl carb – with dual feed and mechanical secondaries, New in 2019.
- Cobra aluminum hi-rise intake – stock with the car
- Edelbrock aluminum heads – new in 2019
- Comp Cam and lifters with roller tipped rocker arms – new in 2019
- Tri-Y headers & larger exhaust system – new in 2010
- 4 speed TopLoader rebuilt with ALL new gears and syncros plus a Hurst T-handle Shifter – The 4 speed was factory installed. The Hurst shifter added about 2008 when the transmission was rebuilt.
- 3,89 rear end – factory installed
- OpenTracker Racing blueprinted front and rear suspension, This lowered the car an inch on both ends.
- Wilwood 4 piston discs – installed in 2017
Want to listen to an audio of my car running? click below.
If you want to delve a bit deeper into those items above, there is a menu below with links to the various things I’ve done to this car. I wrote an intro discussing what the item is with details & added specs below.
Or if you’d just like to see some more pictures of this vehicle,
CLICK HERE for links to the pictures
The first two links on the menu below are two versions of how I found my car, bought it and managed to get it home back in 1982 . Biff Hitzeman was with me, and wrote his own version. He and I used to be editors for our Mustang club’s newsletter. We wrote these pieces for Ponytalk.
The other links will give more specific info about what I did and specs on what the upgraded parts were. There are specific details such as Vendor and part numbers. This is a record for me as well.
=====================================================================
My GT 350 Enhancement Menu
Here are links to pages about finding my car, the upgrades I’ve done and picture links to my Shelby Cobra Mustang:
- Finding my Shelby Mustang – My version of the story
- Rebuilding the Engine
- Edelbrock Aluminum Heads
- Comp Cam, Elgin Roller Tipped Rocker Arms and Comp Springs
- Article on Small Block Ford Build: Choosing Camshafts from DIY Ford
- Icon Forged Pistons
- Big Block radiator (3 Core)
- High Performance Summit Racing water pump
- Blue Printing and Balancing the engine
- The 1968 Ford 302 Mexican Block story
- Pertronix pointless ignition
- Tri-Y Exhaust Headers and Exhaust Pipes
- Ignition, Wires, Plugs and the Battery
- Holley 600 CFM Brawler 4 bbl Carburetor
- Upgrading the Suspension
- OpenTracker Racing blueprinted upper and lower control arms & shorter performance springs plus Spring Perches
- Upgraded Strut Rods
- Mid-eye, 4.5 rear leaf springs
- Ford 9 inch 3.89 rear end
- Brake Upgrade – Wilwood 4 piston disc brakes
- Stock Specs on 1968 Shelby includes current specs
- The 4 Speed Toploader Transmission & Hurst Shifter
- Clutch and Pressure Plate – McLeod 75213
- Tires and Rims – 15″ 10 spoke aluminum rims with Goodrich TA’s
- Pictures of my car through the years
- Read about the history and evolution of the Ford small block engine at CarTechBooks
- Ford engine specifications from the CrankShaftCoalition
- What makes a Shelby Mustang unique?
I lowered this car about an inch on both ends. Lowering the center of gravity improves the handling of the car. If you didn’t read what I wrote on another page, let’s just say once you start down a path on a car, you can’t go back very easily. Going forward means fixing or adjusting. In this case, the new front springs raised that end of the car higher than the back. Samaritan Tire cut half coil off the front springs lowering the front 1 inch. So the car sets level now. It is real subtle but it gives this car a more aggressive stanch. I wouldn’t have expected those results, I’d recommend lowering your Mustang using shorter coil springs in the front and mid-eye leaf springs in the rear.